Hours Detroit : Restaurant Review for Adelina

A restaurant can be a lot of different things at once.

Adelina is a new downtown destination under the capacious umbrella of celebrity chef Fabio Viviani. It’s sleek and trendy — its words — and often attracts the ensuing fashionable, want-to-be-seen clientele.

Adelina can function like a classic steakhouse if diners choose — the option to simply order a filet mignon, martini, and Caesar salad stares you right in the face. It’s a place to celebrate a raucous birthday or grab a showy craft cocktail on a date. And although it positions itself as Italian-Mediterranean fusion, Adelina is at its best when it celebrates humble Italian fare.

That’s why you should order like a nonna.

When I left Adelina, I couldn’t help but think of my late grandmother — the Greek one who married into an Italian family and learned how to cook like her mother-in-law. When I was a kid, our family would gather around a clothed picnic table on her porch each Sunday, the lot of us eating meatballs, sausage and peppers, pasta, and salad from a big wooden bowl while hummingbirds frantically buzzed around plastic bird feeders. Italian polka played from an old radio that sat on the windowsill.

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